Friday, 27 January 2012

Friday 27th January 2012. You want tuk-tuk?


I wake up early, but not too early, at around 6.30am. I forget where I am for a moment, wondering if I am still behind bars in the UAE for a brief moment or two, before remembering that I’m in Cambodia and have to get up for work soon. I snooze on and off for the next half-hour, listening to the gentle cooing sound of pigeons who have roosted in the eaves (my apartment is on the top floor). At 7am I get up, shower and dress. I can see myself showering a lot here, given the heat. I don’t have to worry about breakfast. My Korean hosts have told me I can get breakfast at the canteen along with all my new colleagues. They have even asked me what I specifically want to eat so they can tell the cooks. I don’t have to eat Korean food for every meal if I don’t want to. I’ve asked for an omelette or scrambled eggs with bacon and some coffee, and by golly, that’s exactly what I get. Well, it’s sort of between an omelette and scrambled egg, but is surprisingly tasty. There are chopped onions and ham in with the eggs. They also give me toast, and I try to explain I’m cutting out the crappy white carbs (bread, mainly) and hope they aren’t too insulted.

With breakfast done, I convene once more with DJ to work through some as much of the work he’s leaving for me as possible before he has to go for his flight back to Vietnam this afternoon. The job is going down some interesting contractual roads, shall we say. On reading some of the letters that have been flying around, it’s obvious that this one could run and run. That’s got to be a good thing. On the other hand, there’s a real current of volatility, which seems to be a feature of jobs like this in places like this. I get the sense that ANYTHING could happen at any time. Time will tell.

At lunch today, the cooks are being overly accommodating and bring both us British blokes a bacon and egg sandwich with chips. I feel terrible that I really don’t want to eat it, and insist that for lunch I will eat the Korean stuff. From what I’ve tasted so far, it’s of good standard (compared to some of the horrors I encountered in Abu Dhbai last year), and can’t be terribly bad for me with lots of fish, vegetables and rice (not to mention oodles of chilli). Maybe the cooks think we live on bacon and eggs. Maybe because the Koreans seem to eat the same stuff every meal, they assume that we do as well.

After eating, everyone goes their own way and does their own thing for the rest of the 90-minute break. DJ says he has to get something from a shop that he can’t get in Vietnam, so I walk back to my apartment and put my feet up for just over an hour. I could definitely get used to this. Thank you, or indeed Merci beaucoup, French colonialism and the extended lunch-break!

The afternoon goes by fairly painlessly. I don’t seem to be suffering from any jet lag. I think barely sleeping for nearly 2 days of travelling has actually helped me out in this respect. It could be a lot, lot worse. Just after 4pm, DJ says his goodbyes and sets off for the airport. I am now on my own, and take up residence in the open-plan office where I will be based. It is very tight and cosy by Western standards. There are two or three main clusters of small desks with maybe six people on each cluster. There are no partitions between the desks, so you don’t get much privacy. I suppose it fosters good communications or something.

I only have to sit for another hour and a bit before the big hand and little hand are vertically opposite each other on the clock face (6pm that is) and it’s time to go. I am asked if I want to have dinner at the canteen, and I politely decline. No ta. I’m going to go and find something else, if you don’t mind. I’m in the mood for something Western and quite probably grease-laden. But first, I want to go swimming, so I head back to my flat, put on my swimming gear and head down to the pool. There are two at the complex, actually, and I plump for the one in the newer half. It looks nicer.

So, I splash about without a care in the world for a while. I have the whole 25m long pool to myself and do a few lengths of various strokes in the evening half-light. I should get some goggles, really. And maybe some ear plugs. I feel a little dizzy for a minute or two when I get out. I hope this will pass. I would really like to swim every day, if I can. It’s kind of a plan. Like this whole working-6,500-miles-away-from-home is a plan. I won’t say what the plans are, because I have made plans before and have had them go wrong more times than I can remember. What is they say about plans? Something about plans are what we make whilst God laughs. Laugh it up, mythological entity...I will keep trying until my dying day.

After my little swim I have a shower and get dressed (I wear jeans and a long-sleeved shirt to minimise biting areas available to mosquitoes, as advised by the travel briefs I have read) and am ready to hit the town...or wherever it is they go in these parts. DJ had mentioned an area called the Riverside, and a Facebook friend has recommended a place called FCC, short for the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, I believe. I stride out of the apartment block, hoping that there will be a tuk-tuk waiting there to convey me to my destination. There are usually one or two there, but on this occasion the street is empty.

Luckily a helpful security guard spots me standing there looking like a lost Sasquatch and says that if I ask at reception they will phone for a tuk-tuk. I ask and I receive. Within a few minutes a tuk-tuk pulls up in front of the accommodation. I am greeted aboard by a smiling and friendly young man called Panith, who I negotiate my price with before setting off. We settle on six dollars for the return trip (I don’t know how far it is, but he seems satisfied). I climb aboard the little covered wagon attached to the back of his motorbike and take a seat on the leather couch at the back, and then we are off. The tuk-tuk doesn’t go much more than about 20mph, but that’s fine. It’s quite relaxing to sit there, feeling the breeze against my face as the contraption ambles along. We soon come to a main road and join the throng of buzzing mopeds and bikes all heading this way and that. There are fewer cars than I thought there would be, which is probably just as well. The tuk-tuks and bikes all weave between each other at junctions, some more cautiously than others. Panith doesn’t seem to be in any particular hurry and drives carefully and sensibly...apart from when he turns round occasionally to talk to me. In surprisingly good English, he asks me if I want a city tour or a trip to the Killing Fields. Since I am going to be off tomorrow, I say that I would indeed like to have a city tour. I might not bother with the Killing Fields just yet. I’ve only just got here and intend to stay around, so can leave that particular “attraction” until I feel ready to see the place.

We turn down a couple of poorly-lit side-streets where I see various people in small gatherings or just sitting on the pavement. There are small food stalls here and there, most which attach to mopeds or bicycles. A whole spectrum of smells assaults my nostrils; one minute I smell frying meat, the next I detect raw sewage.  We soon emerge onto a wider road with good lighting and a strip of neon-lit restaurants, cafes and bars along my right-hand side. To my left I see the river and the distant lights of boats in the water and lights on the other shores. The traffic has suddenly become very busy, and we crawl along at times, surrounded by other vehicles. I could reach out and touch people on bikes or mopeds, they are that close. I can see why they advise you to keep belongings close and in front of you now.

We pull up just past a junction outside a colonial-era three-storey building with a small white sign bearing the letters “FCC” and an arrow pointing up a set of narrow stairs. Panith helps me down onto the street – it’s not high or anything, I just struggle to squeeze through the small gap between roof and base – and asks me when he should return. I give myself two hours to get some food and a few drinks and turn to head for the stairs. Before I’m even two steps onto the busy pavement a bedraggled-looking woman holding a baby is onto me, holding out her hand. She wants money, obviously. I don’t look her in the eye; I just make my way briskly to the FCC entrance. Much as I’d like to help the poor woman, I can’t help but feel that giving her any money would just invite a stampede in my direction with hundreds of other hands reaching out for a dollar or two. The woman follows me, actually pulling at my shirt sleeve as I stride towards the entrance, but as soon as I get into the building she is gone, probably to try her luck elsewhere.

When I reach the top of the stairs I survey the scene in front of me. A large bar is to my left and in front of me a variety of tables and chairs; some low tables with wicker armchairs for lounging in and drinking; some higher tables with metal-framed chairs for eating at. At the front of the room, I see that it is open to the elements, with views across the street to the rivers. The walls are all rendered with creamy plaster and dotted with wall-lights and various photographs and artwork. A waitress approaches me and I ask for a table for one. She takes me towards the front of the room and offers me a table in the second row from the front, which suits me fine. It isn’t too exposed and not too remote. I don’t like to be too conspicuous when dining alone, but I also don’t like being shoved away in the shadows like a social leper.

I peruse the menu to see what’s on offer. It’s a mix of Asian and Western food, with a wide variety of snacks/starters to choose from, and the usual burgers and sandwiches offered for main along with various noodle and curry dishes. I decide to have an Asian starter (pork dumplings) and a Western main (Wagyu beef burger – allegedly – for only about $7!) along with a draught Tiger beer. The draught beer is really cheap here. I will have to try the local brew called Angkor some time.

As I sit and wait for my meal I do my usual solo-dining routine of playing games on my phone and secretly watching other people and what they get up to. There are several dynamics at play here: Young families with little kids on holidays; backpacker couple types with deep, natural tans; male expat workers in groups or on their own (like me). A group of three expat worker types near me has at least one American and one Australian in their number. The Aussie gets up from the table every so often to check on the tennis match being shown in an adjacent room (actually a little alcove with a projector). Then I spot something on the wall. Lots of somethings, actually. There are dozens of geckos in here, all over the walls, but mostly near the light fittings, waiting to catch their suppers. I think they are ornaments at first until I see one of them dart quickly across the wall with that impressive lightning speed they possess. I suppose it keeps the insect population under control. Talking of which, I notice that most people are in shorts and t-shirts or at least short-sleeved shirts. Do they not care about mosquito bites and all the nasties that they can give you? Patently not. Either that or they all smear themselves with insect repellent before coming out.

My beer takes a few minutes to arrive, and my food takes what seems an eternity to arrive. As I’ve not been in the Far East for so long, I’ve forgotten how different the standards of service are here. You could say it’s more relaxed, I suppose. It can be irritating at first, especially if you are in a group and they bring all the courses together, in the wrong order or even not at all. They don’t seem to understand the concept of everyone eating a course together, either. I remember it driving me to distraction ten years ago in Taiwan. Now I just tut and grumble and go back to playing with my phone.

The food, when it arrives, is pretty good. I polish off the dumplings just as my burger arrives, and then polish that off too. I’m not sure if it is actually Wagyu beef. It’s juicy enough, but I can hardly taste it over all the sauces, cheeses and other items added to the burger. I have another beer, and then ask for the bill, sneaking a little look in the sports alcove to see how Andy Murray is doing while I wait (he loses). The bill is around $25, which I find to be very reasonable given the fact I’ve had 2 courses and 2 beers.

I still have some time before Panith is due to return, so I decide to take a walk along the Riverside (or Sisowath Quay as it is formally named) to see what is around. I shouldn’t be able to get lost just walking up and down one street, I would have thought.  I walk past an assortment of shops, bars and restaurants. Many are no more than about 10 to 12 feet wide. The restaurants and bars seem to follow a familiar layout: two rows of tables and chairs with an aisle down the middle. Sometimes there are a couple of tables on the pavement, but the pattern is still the same. Only the decor and furniture seem to differ. Most seem to serve a selection of Western and Asian foods, varying in price, but never being very expensive. Some of the larger establishments on the corners of junctions are modern, trendy places with somewhat dearer prices. Of course, perusing the menus invites the waiting staff to try and entice you in. They aren’t too pushy and don’t chase you down the street, at least. If you amble along the roadward side of the pavement you are constantly being asked if you “want tuk-tuk, sir?” I find myself shaking my head an awful lot.

Before long I come to the end of this stretch of the Riverside, marked by a sudden deterioration in architectural finesse and decent pavements. Past the last few, unoccupied and rather shabby buildings there are blue and white metal hoardings, so I turn around and head back towards the FCC where Panith will be waiting (I hope). I once again run the gauntlet of “tuk tuk?” and “please come in,” as I make my way back to my starting point. It doesn’t matter that I just walked past them moments ago; they still want to offer you something.

As promised, Panith is waiting for me just where he dropped me off. I climb aboard and we set off back to my apartment. We take a different route on the way back, going farther along the Riverside. I see that there are indeed more restaurants, shops and bars after the hoardings. There must be a good mile or two of places to try. As we near the end of the strip we pass a large area on the right which is surrounded by light-festooned trees and ornate fencing. It is the Titanic restaurant, so Panith tells me, and is very popular.

Our route back to my apartment takes us along some more major roads. We pass one or two nightclubs (“lots of girls,” smiles Panith) and the huge luxury Sunway hotel where Panith usually plies his trade. The traffic is light, and it takes only about 5 minutes to get back to where I am staying. I pay him the agreed fee, and then he gives me his mobile phone number so I can call him whenever I need to go anywhere. We arrange for him to come and pick me up at 10.30am for my city tour.

I don’t stay up too late; I am still fairly tired from my trip, and sleep is soon taking my mind away to the land of dreams.

No comments:

Post a Comment